When owner/chef  Andriano Paganini launched his intimate little Pomodoro ristorante on Forest Avenue a few years ago, it was my distinct pleasure to enjoy sharing dinner with the handsome young Italian founder. While relishing a variety of appetizers and entrees, it became clear that his Milano inspired family recipes and invitingly modest prices were the perfect call for a place on this busy street famed for diversified restaurants and art galleries. Thus, it was no surprise when his creation became an immediate success in a location where several predessors had failed in rapid succession. As merely the third Orange County venture in what originated in San Francisco circa 1994, Pomodoro has since become a very successful chain of Italian bargain bistros.

On a recent Sunday, when adjacent restaurants were closing at 9:45 p.m., our hungry quartet was happily indulged at Pomodoro commencing with a good bottle of merlot, complimentary slices of sourdough baguette and tasty complement of olive oil/pesto. Then, though not on the menu, requests for cioppino were quickly expedited, two lavish bounties of flavorfully-brothed bivalves, crustaceans and fin fish for a bargain $16.95.  Then, a hearty heap of capellini pomodoro wafted with garlic and basil at $7.95;  and penne tubes topping eggplant bites in a spicey tomato sauce with mozzarella for $9.50. The budget-pleasing prices encompass savory selections in small and large portions and varied sides, all making this a top spot for family dining where a terrific variety of antipasti, insalati, pizzas, paninis, specialitas and tradizionales are deliciously on tap for sharing.

234 Forest Ave., Laguna Beach 949 497-8222

www.ilovepomodoro.com

Happily not changed are the exotic Mai Tai and Lapu potables as well as most of the original menu created by late owner, Francis Cabang. Charcoal broiled chicken, steaks, chops and lobster, reasonably priced in the traditional standard of this tiki-inspired venue. In addition, though the relish tray opener and flaming pele dessert are a distant memory, entrees are still prefaced with the traditional French onion soup and ono ono salad.

331 No. Coast Hwy. Laguna Beach 949 494-8001

www.royalhawaiianlaguna.com

Ever since once trendy Hotel San Maarten Laguna Beach was taken over by the Holiday Inn, circa 1980’s, locals have been looking for a restaurant to equal the late Gauguin’s, a hands-down favorite with locals and in-the-know tourists. Following a long string of unsavory fiascos, I like to think the current Blue Laguna is filling the Gauguin void. On the brink of a first anniversary, this handsome restaurant/lounge is gradually exuding many of the popular predecessor’s merits and with purse-pleasing prices to boot.

For openers, owner/manager Wilton Briscoe resides on propertyewhich seemingly assures consistent hospitality as he  supervises all dining areas: the sunny alfresco front deck, spaciously breezy back patio and sophisticated dual interior settings.  Additionally, this astute young operator is totally into all things contemporary. Most recently he introduced an affordable Sunday champagne brunch offering a tempting selection of entrees complemented with bottomless flutes of bubbly for a tender $20 tab.  Briscoe also immediately caught on to the hip tapas trend, made entertainment a nightly attraction, instigated 120 minutes of weekday happy hour enticement then, topping all, he continually feeds the late night crowd into a 2 am closing time.

Commencing with a 7 am to noon breakfast menu, the main bill of fare is available from 11 am to 10 pm augmented with dinner entrees starting at 4 pm. This translates to small and large size soups and salads at $4 to $8; sandwiches and burgers $9 to $12. Except for the 8 oz. filet mignon at $34, entrees are $l6 to $26, the latter for 6 oz. blackened ahi steak with seasonal veggies and garlic mashed potatoes. However, $12 will get you an 8 oz. ahi steak on a sesame seed bun with lettuce, tomato and onion. Sides, such as mac & cheese, sautéed spinach and seasonal veggies, are all of $4 each, and five desserts are a tasty $4 to $7. The tapas menu is presented much like sushi listings with 15 taste treats to mark for ordering  and features such as twin tacos packed with carnitas, chicken or carne asada for $6...an 8” cheese pizza, $9...pan fried crab cakes, $10...parmesan crusted artichoke hearts, $12.  The nightly music menu is dancingly varied and there is occasional entertainment on Sunday afternoons.

696 So. Coast Hwy. Laguna Beach 949 376-2583

www.Bluelagunaoc.comBB

Beyond the extensive marble top bar which curves gracefully inside the front door, little has changed at this inviting Italian trattoria since the Crivello family launched Rumari some 18 years ago. With chef Vince manning the kitchen accompanied by Papa Antonio and brother Massimo, Mama Bina's authentic recipes have remained the inevitable star. The same little patio for alfresco seating fronts Coast Hwy traffic, double dining areas await for leisurely supping and sipping as late as 10:30 p.m weekends, and unwavering service keeps a loyal following coming.

The current economy crisis seems not to have deterred things here as the somewhat pricey menu, at least for the seafood, beef and veal arrangements, has remained constant in spite of drastically reduced tariffs many local establishments are promoting these days. Understandable, however, considering the high quality of cuisine and generosity of portions. With an insatiable appetite for pasta, I requested my favorite, vermicelli, delicate angel hair strands offered with garlic, olive oil, basil, fresh and sundried tomatoes. Mentioning a desire for pesto sauce, a heaping bowl of the savory topping was hastened to the table resulting in a gargantuan main course which could, for $15.50, easily have satisfied two appetites.

Wavering between a trio of linguine presentations and lasagna della nona, my equally pasta-minded companion settled on linguine salsiccia, realizing the latter would require 1/2 hour baking time because microwaves are forbidden in the immaculate kitchen. This hearty dish at $16.95, arrived lavished in a rich chunky tomato, pecorino cheese sauce punctuated with sausage, roasted peppers and onions. After an antipasto misto starter of sliced meats, cheeses and veggies ($15.95) he, too, received carry-out leftovers. Beyond 20-some assorted ala carte entrees, most in a $26 to $40-plus range, Rumari offers such recent nightly quotes as individual preparations of swordfish, ahi and seabass entrees plus shrimp ravioli for $24.95.  Mama Bina's freshly made cannoli, tiramisu and gelato creations constitute affordably delectable finales.

NICK’S LAGUNA BEACH WINS  with Glori Fickling

Following a quietly unobtrusive opening last August, Nick’s Laguna Beach is doing very nicely a brief 9 months later. Opting for an early solo dinner at the restaurant’s central cocktail bar which is flanked by comfortable booths and tables, I was able to observe some of the obviously devoted clientele. An adjacent couple from Palm Desert, for instance, mentioned that while they usually vacation at Crystal Cove, they always dine at Nick’s because they enjoy the consistently tasty and reasonably priced dishes. Relishing a plump fire roasted artichoke followed by twin fish tacos stuffed with slaw and mango salsa, the wife called her combination a “perfect meal” for only $14.

Two Laguna Beach locals similarly admitted to visiting Nick’s often, “because we can easily afford it”, said the woman, pointing to her hearty bowl of chicken noodle soup and house salad of mixed greens with crumbled egg, bacon, red onion and croutons, a total of $8. Her husband’s plump burger at $9 was termed another bargain, roasted seasonal vegetables his healthy alternative to warm potato salad or rustic potato chips. Menu tabs, in fact, range from $4 to $18 except for the $25 center cut filet mignon served with "loaded baked potato" & veggies.  Add to this, the house salad with any entrée is all of $3.  Sipping my round-bottom glass of chardonnay, I settled on a grilled ribeye salad, the recommended favorite of gracious mixologists, Craig & Kalen.  The delicious combination actually translates to a balanced dinner, an entire steak  thickly sliced and grilled to rare perfection surrounding a bountiful mound of bacon vinaigrette drizzled mixed greens atop creamy warm potato salad punctuated with dabs of spicy mustard.

Let’s not overlook, either, Nick’s breakfast menu, another achievement available 8 a.m. until noon daily.  From a tidy $5 for oatmeal brulee with berries and cream, or honey granola with organic vanilla yogurt, to $7 for Belgian waffles with berries, syrup and whipped cream, or $10 for a quintet of omelettes complemented with fresh fruit or hash browns, all promise a temptingly affordable beginning to any day.

440 Coast Highway, Laguna Beach; 949 376-8595

www.nickslagunabeach.com

From tidy sidewalk tables which beckon guests to a sophisticated interior replete with two bountiful cocktail bars, elegantly draped booths, opulent art and a polished hardwood dance floor, a restaurant does not get much more sumptuously Italian than remarkable Romeo Cucina. The popular dining attraction, inspired by brothers Vittorio, Antonio, Vincenzo and dearly departed Ignazio, is merely ten months shy of a two decade anniversary and boasts a menu as affordably priced as it is deliciously diverse and admirably abundant.  Among an octave of antipasti, for example, comes rollini melenzane, four large eggplant slices plumply embracing creamy, garlic-infused feta/ricotta cheeses lavished with zesty tomato sauce, parmegiano and plentiful basil leaves. At $9.95, the delectable starter is easily enough for two hearty appetites.

Among fifteen pasta entrees, $12.95 to $15.95, many of which are vegetarian delicacies, not least is linguine costa verde, flat green noodles tossed with fresh clams and mussels in garlic, white wine and olive oil. From a top of $24.95 for scampi limoncello, half a dozen specialties from the grill also include ossobucco alla romana, the succulent veal shank specialty many places feature only sporadically.  Each of these is sided with a choice of pasta or fresh vegetables.  As for creative pizzas piping hot from the wood-fired brick oven, what could be more innovative than the thin, crisp crusted heap of garlic accented eggplant, sundried tomato, roasted bell pepper, mozzrella and feta cheeses.  A basket of crusty, baked on the premises bread comes upon seating with a little tub of creamy olive teppanade. Thus, when the brothers Romeo say “buon appetitto” they sincerely mean you to enjoy their healthy cuisine with heartfelt love and gusto.

249 Broadway, Laguna Beach, 949 497-6627