MOZAMBIQUE A PROVACATIVE  LAGUNA DEBUT

With Glori Fickling GHoneyWest

                                                                 

Inspired by the exotic spices of the Far East, motivated by the energy and dedication of South African founder Tony Shill, long-awaited Mozambique debuted in all its sophisticated splendor on July 31, 2005. Interestingly' the following day, August 1st, was exactly a year from this enterprising restaurateur's initial arrival in Laguna Beach to begin work on his life-long dream, construction of a seaside restaurant specializing in adventurous cuisine served in a unique setting. The sprawling site, located on property of long vacated Tortilla Flats, was designed by versatile local artist Dale Terbush, famed for designing some of Orange County's most distinguished dining attractions. No exception, this splendiferous center specializes in wood-fire grilled steaks and chops plus crustaceans and poultry seared with the fiery, signature Portuguese spice Peri-Peri, all enticingly dished up in 5 separate areas on 3 diversified levels.

The dining adventure here commences steps past the capacious parking lot where you are greeted at the grandiose entry by a cluster of imposing palms and tropical birds proudly perched in two enormous cages. Veer left to the plant laden dining patio or head straight inside where diners relax at the bar facing an open kitchen, blazing fire pit and cooks energetically at work. In contrast, the formal dining room is steps below where graciously set tables are romantically illuminated with a crackling fireplace and soft lighting.  Then wander past the hostess station and discover stately booths and comfy banquettes upholstered in richly textured burgundy leather.

Chef Alfononso Contriciani has devised a menu featuring succulent steaks, roasted double cut pork chops, a mixed grill and Portuguese marinated bone-in lamb steak. His Mozambique specialties run a gamut from spicy wood-grilled Peri Peri prawns and chicken, to lamb curry and braised short ribs enhanced with root vegetables and apples. Prices range from $19 to $42 with grilled lobster tail and fresh fish du jour at market price. Pasta treats at $16, $18, $23, include shrimp/crabmeat raviolis and sweet potato gnocchi with or sans chicken. Tiny pots of pecan/maple butter accompany kitchen baked rolls and ala carte sides of asparagus, cauliflower au gratin, mushroom saute, Yukon Gold mashed potatoes and crisp shoestrings are $5.50. 
 
A stellar attraction upstairs is Shebeen, a modern day speakeasy approachable by several outside and interior stairwells. Here, from 11 am until 10 pm every day, until 11 pm weekends, awaits the sophisticated cocktail lounge and entertainment center.  The double-sided bar is flanked with an L-shaped alfresco deck, retractable striped awning strips overhead providing protection during inclement weather.  Stately palms fringe the blue Pacific beyond and there are two cozy fire pits and TV's adding to the overall experience.  
 
Order a libation stirred with such premium house labels as Ketel One vodka for martinis presented at your table in frosty cocktail shakers, and your server will hasten a cup of assorted Peri Peri spiced nuts to your table. Great for lunch or appetizers are the dozen Shebeen plates priced from $8 to $18 for such as chicken wings, prawns and chicken livers seasoned with Peri Peri spice, wok charred ahi, chilled crab plates, salads and 8-ounce Black Angus burgers. With advance reservations, a private dining room accommodating up to 16 persons is available for dinner at minimum charge of $1,000, $500 additional on weekends exclusive of alcoholic beverages and gratuity.

Weekend entertainment was recently introduced starring the syncopated rhythms of the Jamie Browning Band promised to return September 13.  An awesome highlight that evening was the surprise performance of the Righteous Brothers' renowned Bill Medley, Browning's long time friend and associate, who provoked a standing ovation from the SRO crowd and will appear with the band on future occasions.

MOZAMBIQUE, located at 1740 South Coast Hwy. Laguna Beach, California, is open every day.  Lunch 11 a.m. to 10 pm, until 11 p.m. weekends, dinner served from 5 p.m.  Phone 949 715-7777. tony@mozambiqueoc.com

Food: **** *   Service: *** **   Ambiance: *** * Overall: ****