brought to you by
Glori Fickling GHoneyWest
Following myriad incarnations since its original
inception in historic San Juan Capistrano, the
Capistrano Depot, has finally come full circle debuting
very quietly in late February and aptly named The
Vintage Steak House. Obviously, enterprising principals,
chef Byron Gemmel and genial partner Mathew Temmes have
spared no expense in making this circa 1894 landmark a
top-of-the-line dining attraction. Let’s start with the
fully restored 1927 Pullman car where guests dine at a
leisurely pace in cozy little compartments, reminiscent
of our cross country travels when supped and sipped,
sentimentally viewing the ever-changing landscapes.
Outside the club car attractive patio furnishings beckon
to delightful alfresco indulgence. In actuality,
perusing the handsomely constructed premises is a major
component of enjoying breakfast, lunch or dinner here
because the exciting clickity clack of Amtrak trains is
enchanting from the vintage 1887 Freight House Bar and
appealing trio of dining areas. The rear room is quiet
as it has been meticulously soundproofed via
artistically embellished triple glass windows.
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For all this sophisticated splendor, however, it is the superlative cuisine and genuine hospitality which will keep us returning to The Vintage because, essentially, this is a true steak house up to and including the open fire mesquite grill from which come a hearty selection of steaks, pork chops, rack of lamb, chicken and quintet of seafood entrees. Not to forget that enterprising partner, Gemmel, is a multi award winning chef whose appetizer menu alone rates accolades. His approach to mushrooms is especially fascinating as he prepares a new, imported variety weekly. Delicate little slender-stemmed Forest Namekos, on a recent experience, delivered delectable texture and flavor. Finally, when thinking steak, here awaits the ultimate in tenderness, flavor, marbling and your helpful server will explain the merits of each cut before selecting. The featured rib eye at $32.95 was deemed a winner by my companion, as was my perfectly rare New York, $24.95. Both entrees were complemented with a colorful vegetable bouquet, a huge baked potato with sided embellishments on my plate, a giant twice-baked version for my gregarious guest, who also chose a warm chocolate cupcake with ice cream for a shared dessert. Next time I’ll opt for the heap of vanilla bean profiteroles with bourbon sauce or temptting melange of ice creams & sorbets topped with fresh berries.
26701-B Verdugo St.
San Juan Capistrano, 949 661-3400