Where to eat In Mendocino

Stevenswood's restaurant rates high as a local dining destination. Award-winning Executive Chef Randy Lewis conjures up culinary treats. At dinner the local steelhead arrives in an aquavit-cured gravlax tart, nestled on caramelized onion rings alongside wafer-sliced cucumber discs. A Mozzarella-prosciutto roulade joins heirloom tomatoes in a balsamic reduction for another taste-tingling first course. Bouillabaisse features a brimming soup bowl of scallops, shrimp, mussels, clams, and lobster claw in a Pernod-infused tomato fumй. The osso bucco of lamb order brings a huge crusty shank with rosemary-scented bread pudding and oven-roasted vegetables."

"The desserts dazzle. Be sure and try Randy's world famous KeyLime Pie. A martini glass brims with zabaglione and summer berries and a lemon tuille shatters with each biteful. And if you have a passion for home-made ice cream and sorbet, out comes a platter-size serving with six scoops of intense flavors-strawberry, plaintain, black walnut, espresso, fig/blueberry, and mint granite. California wines by the glass and the bottle compose a fine spectrum. The award winning wine list offers a perfect pairing to the selection of fine foods."
 lacquered Alaskan halibut with an Asian noodle cake and a memorable duck prepared two ways with Black Mission fig glaze. (800) 421-2810. www.stevenswood.com.

Cafe Beaujolais, Mendocino's most famous restaurant, is closed for a winter break until Feb. 6.

We had dinner at Moosse Café, where a bowl of roasted eggplant soup and a cured pork chop warmed us to the core on a cold night. It's on the ground floor of the Blue Heron Inn in a room of Zen-like simplicity. (707) 937-4323, www.theblueheron.com.

The first floor of MacCallum House houses the well-known Grey Whale Bar & Café, where the ingredient-driven cuisine changes seasonally and is identified by the grower or producer on the menu. The olive oil tasting on the appetizer list will please foodies. (800) 609-0492.

At the Little River Inn, the restaurant offers Dungeness crab in cakes or in sauce over linguine, as well as other perennial favorites, such as Caesar salad and roasted double-cut pork chops. (888) 466-5683.